Sunday, March 16, 2014

Reclaimed Wood Wall

 Wood Panel Wall {Hester Way}

One of the first project I decided to take head on was my son's room. I contemplated what to do in his room for days. He has been growing into such a big boy and I wanted his room to represent his amazing personality but still be able to grow along with him. Of course his room still needed to stay soft and relaxing enough for the baby he still is. At least in my eyes!


 I finally knew what I wanted to do when I saw a picture of a wood panel wall on Pinterest. It would be the perfect contractual design element that I had been dreaming about this whole time. 

But the BIG questions were could I pull it off and could we afford it? The simple answer…..YES! Well thanks to the help of my dad who has 20+ years experience remodeling homes and building commercial buildings. Without his expertise and tools, I would not have been able to pull off a wall that looks as good as this! And of course I have to give a shout out to my sister for helping distract the little ones. A project this size takes lots of hands, tools, help, and patience.

Here is a list of supplies we used. The supplies you need might differ with your project depending on square footage:

Chop Saw -My dad brought his RIDGID10 in Sliding CompoundMiter Saw with Dual Laser Guide. This made cutting boards easy and fast. You can rent similar saws at your local Home DepotStud finder- We bought the Zircon Corporation e50 StudSensor for $19.97Hammer
Interior White paint
Wood – We used 5/8 in. x 5 ½ in x 6 ft Cedar Pickets. We had the lumberyard pre cut the wood into random sizes to make it easier for us. 15 boards cost us $215 and they cut it for free!Circular saw- We used the RIDGID 15- Amp 7-1/4 in. Circular saw $99.00. This made cutting the wood to fit the top of the wall easy.Tape Measure

Nail gun -We bought the new Ryobi One Plus 18-volt 2 in18-gauge cordless Brad Nailer for $149.99. This was an amazing buy and worked better than we thought it would. You can also rent a nail gun for your local Home Depot for around the same price

Nails for nail gun -We used Porter-Cable 2 in. x 18 gauge glued 5M Electro-Galvanized Steel Brand Nail—5000 pack -- $19.98

Pencil
Level
Interior Wood Finishing Stain
Interior Red paint


 After we bought the wood, I spent the next two weeks contemplating on how to stain the boards to make them look like old barn wood. I would do a board here and there with a different staining technique I had learned each time. It wasn’t until I was on my 6th board that I realized if I continued at this pace it would take me a year, and we had a dead line. Winston’s room had to be finished before grandma came to visit. 

Anyway, I had decided to put up the stain and paint brushes and put the bare wood on the wall.

Before you nail the boards into the wall, it is important to use the stud finder to find the studs in the wall. Once you find the studs us the level and draw a line up the wall where the studs are. Believe me, this will make your life so much easier! The last think you want to do is have to search for the studs on every layer of boards.

Remember: Nail the boards directly into the studs (wood behind the drywall) and corners of the wall so they are secure and will not come loose.  I would not recommend using liquid nails! If by any chance you decide to take the wall down…it will be impossible with liquid nails
This is me showing the nail gun who is boss. lol. After the 5th layer i finally got the hang of it!

After the guidelines have been drawn on the wall its time to apply the boards. I recommend using 3-4 different size boards in each layer to get the old barn look. 

Even though the boards were pre-cut for us, we still had to cut the end pieces to fit the wall perfectly. My dad used his chop saw to get the job done accurately and fast. I would have helped him, but I have a fear of cutting my fingers off. :( 

My dad using his new toy to cut the boards 


Once the first layer of boards are up use the level to make sure the layer is level with the floorboards. Continue this process up the rest of the wall.

Remember: If the first layer is not level is will cause major problems when you get to the top of the wall.
Hint: make sure to measure twice and cut once. Also don't forget about using the level. We forgot to check if a few layers were level and had to take them down because they were so off. And believe me you don't want to take the boards off. It is a major pain in the butt!!!

 If you have electrical outlets on your wall like we did, they can be a totally pain in the butt! Thankfully I had my dad there to know exactly what to do. When we came up on the electrical outlets he measured the outlets and cut the boards to fit the outside of the outlet opening. We then screwed the electrical casing to the closest boards giving the electrical outlets a smooth finish on the wall. Please be careful when doing this…you are working with live wires.


Due to the nature of the wood the board pieces will not fit perfectly together. This is totally ok! It will make the wall look more natural and vintage if there are some odd spaced boards.

Hint: If you find there are overly large gaps in the spacing, use black paint fill in the space…you will not even be able to notice the space at a distance.

Once you get to the top of the wall measure the distance between the ceiling and the boards to ensure you will have boards that fit the opening. We were a little off at the top and had to hand cut the wood using a circular saw to make the boards fit.

This isn't the last layer, but this is the only picture i got before we were finished with the wall. 

You have the option to put edging around the wall or leave it unfinished. We opted to put the edging around the wall to make it look more finished. You can choose any edging you would like. We used ¾ “ round edging to finish our look. Here is how we applied the edging.


Here is the finished wall with the edging. We still have to finishes painting and staining the remainder of the boards. I was so happy that it turned out so good! 

By the time we were fully finished with the wall our backs were killing us and it was time for some relaxation and the Big Band Theory. 

The next day we strategically placed where the red and white painted boards would be placed. Now when I say strategically, I mean we used blue tap to mark random boards red and white. I only wanted a few on the wall and just wanted to space them randomly throughout the wall. To get that old barn look I whitewashed the board using the red paint I had left over from a previous project and the white paint that was left over from painting our trim.  Whitewashing is extremely easy! 

I honestly liked the way the boards looked on the wall without being stained, however it was not the look I was going for so I had to stain the remainder of the boards. I decided to use Minwax 1-Qt Oil-Based Ebony Wood Finish Interior Stain,  Minwax 1-Qt Oil Based Dark Walnut Wood Finish Interior Stain, and Minwax 1-Qt Oil Based Jacobean Wood Finish Interior Stain. I went with using three stains to give a mismatched look similar to reclaimed wood.


Remember: When staining please make sure you are in a well vented area, uses a drop cloth if the boards are on the wall, and use cheap brushes. There is no need to use expensive brushes because the stain will ruin them.

 I can't wait to hear about your experiences! 

Kasha 




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